My Second Guest Blogger Matt Kachinski tells us about: The Palio of Siena

When I decided to host guest bloggers I didn't imagine I'd have such a wealth of offers. This one comes from a young Englishman who came to Italy and like so many others fell fast in love with this fabulous country. He now lives in one of Italy's most famous and most beautiful regions: La Toscana...Tuscany. Let's all give a warm welcome to Matt and read on to see what he has to say about Il Palio, Siena's most popular tradition. Grazie Matt!

The Palio of Siena: A Mix of History, Traditions and…Guts



Il Palio di Siena



Yes guts, because it takes guts to run full speed on a bareback horse while wearing silk pants, going three times around a D-shaped square with sharp turns while nine other jockeys will not hesitate to whip you in the face to get ahead of you. There is no second place in Palio: One winner, nine losers.

Horses are the real protagonists of the Palio. There are 17 districts, or Contrade, in Siena, but only 10 run each edition of the Palio. Often jockeys fall during the race, but as long as the horse keeps the cockade on his forehead, it is eligible to win the race, which is not a rare occurrence. Horses are blessed in church right after being assigned to a Contrada; they are haled as heroes when victorious, and are present to the main dinner with all the people of the respective Contrada on the night before the Palio. It is unfortunate that sometimes they get injured. A special "hospice" for horses was instituted about 20 years ago to give the chance to wounded horses to keep a normal life even when limp.

Actually, the Contrada in second place is the one wearing the shame of having almost gotten it. Almost, is not enough. The horse and the jokey will go home, but the entire Contrada will be Purgata, which means receiving a purge. All this, and much more, is the Palio of Siena.

To enjoy this experience at its fullest you should consider renting one of the many Tuscan villas by Owner near Siena. http://thriftytuscany.com/tuscany-villas

But back to speaking of guts: There is a lot of gut feeling when you attend the Palio. Even foreigners do sense the vibrant nervousness in the air during the minutes that precede the race. All the gaiety, the choral chants, the colors displayed during flag weaving, the high sound of trumpets and transporting rhythm of drums cease. Even the normal chatting that has pervaded the Piazza del Campo since the morning of the day of the Palio fades away. The mortaretto, a salve gunpowder load, explodes, lifting a wave of scared pigeons from one side of the piazza to the other. As if a signal known by more than six thousand people had been suddenly cast in the sky, everyone starts lowering their voice to the point that the chirping of swallows flying above can be clearly heard. This is the moment when the ten horses and their jockeys exit the Cortile Del Podestà inside Palazzo Pubblico and enter the square, slowly heading towards the Canape; the thick tense rope that signals the start line. It may be one minute or hours before the rope falls to the ground for a good start. It may take many attempts to a clean start, but after that all will soon be over. In less than a minute made of screaming, camera flashes, frantic head turning, and heavy galloping that you can feel in your chest, the mortaretto explodes its final salve and the victorious arm of the jockey rises up.

The Palio as we know it today started taking place in the Renaissance. Before that, it was an oxen race. Through centuries the people of Siena have preserved all the sentiment tied with this folkloric event. You might think that people coming from a town just outside Siena share the same feeling, but it isn't so. The Sienese have done an excellent job at keeping the Palio to themselves only. A newborn Sienese may get the Catholic blessing, but you may rest assured he or she will be blessed in the church of some Contrada, usually that of the mother or father, and a Fazzoletto, a foulard, with the colors and symbol of the district, will accompany all his life. Unless he wants to repudiate it for another district, something really frowned upon in Siena. Every Sienese wears the Fazzoletto everywhere during Palio days, and the winners will wave it hard while rushing through the square towards the horse. Be ready to let them pass!

The disorder that follows Palio is soon cleared out. The winners collect their prize, a unique drape painted by a local or international artist. They will go to the Cathedral with their horse, singing their songs and ready to display their happiness during the following days. To everyone else is left the taste of a wonderful party abruptly ended by the very reason they were celebrating. It doesn't matter: next year it will be all anew again.

Matt Kachinski lives and works in Tuscany for Thrifty Tuscany. He will be glad to help you find the finest villa rental in Siena at Private Villa Rental by Owner http://thriftytuscany.com/villa-san-donato/472.htm and give you tips on how to rent a villa in Tuscany at the best price. http://thriftytuscany.com/

Matt Kachinski is originally from England, but after spending a semester in Florence he settled in Tuscany.

Links:
<a href="http://thriftytuscany.com/tuscany-villas" title="Tuscan villas by Owner">Tuscany villas</a> near Siena.

<a href="http://thriftytuscany.com/villa-san-donato/472.htm" title="Private Villa Rental by Owner">villa rental Siena</a> <a href="http://thriftytuscany.com/" title="Tuscany villas with pool">rent a villa in Tuscany</a>



The Power of Beauty..."Outer Beauty, Inner Joy: Contemplating the Soul of the Renaissance"

Many of you know I've spent much of the last two years working on my first novel "Beneath the Lion's Wings", and keeping this blog. Both have brought me great pleasure and have opened my world up to those who I would have otherwise never met. Viewers from across the globe have found their way to my blog, and my shared love of writing has introduced me to authors and new friends in New York, San Francisco, England, Australia...well the list goes on. In order to thank my readers and all those who continue to encourage me to write and follow my dream of one day being published, I have decided to open up "Italy to Los Angeles and Back" to some topnotch guest bloggers. 

My first guest is Julianne Davidow. She's a sometimes expat, constant lover of art and the author of "Outer Beauty, Inner Joy: Contemplating the Soul of the Renaissance". Julianne's beautiful book can be found at www.juliannedavidow.com  Welcome Julianne Davidow! 

The Power of Beauty: I've always been captivated by the beauty of Italy, and particularly by the art and architecture of the Renaissance.  I’m not alone, of course.  Many people are drawn to Italy and experience strong reactions to the beauty that is all around. When the 19^th century French writer Stendhal visited Florence in 1817, he wrote of feeling so overwhelmed by the number of masterpieces that he had heart palpitations and was afraid he would faint!  In fact, others have also spoken of having similar experiences.

During the months and years I’ve spent in Italy, I’ve taken countless photographs of Renaissance art and architecture.  But it was when I began to read the works of Renaissance writers that I understood there was a strong connection between the art and the philosophy—and that this connection had something to do with why the art feels so powerful.  I wanted to share my experience with others, and to express why the art and philosophy of the Renaissance are still relevant today.

Outer Beauty, Inner Joy: Contemplating the Soul of the Renaissance, is an interweaving of photos, quotes from Italian Renaissance writers, brief essays, and my own thoughts and impressions.  The book is a dip into the Renaissance--one that I hope will transport the reader back into a time when poetry, mythology, and mystery were important aspects of life.

During the 14^th and 15^th centuries, philosophers and artists rediscovered writings, architecture, and sculptures from ancient Greece and Rome.   They studied ancient texts, which spoke of love and beauty as being ways to contact a higher spiritual reality.  In the art, they found a sense of harmony, order, and proportion, and wanted to use these same principles in their own work.  But rather than imitate, Renaissance artists developed unique methods of incorporating these ancient ideals.  As a result, they brought beautiful, innovative creations to the world. 

               The writings of Plato played a major part in the unfolding of this art and culture.  Plato spoke of a divine world of forms of which this level of reality is merely a reflection.   He suggests that the reason we love beauty so much is that it makes us remember our former life in an eternal dimension.  

During the Renaissance, it was believed that great artists had special powers, and that they could contact unseen forces, bringing the beauty of higher realms into their art.  It was also believed that those who viewed this art could come into contact with a divine essence.  Perhaps many people feel this way when they look at a sculpture by Michelangelo or a painting by Botticelli, for example.  I certainly do.  There is something about seeing one of these great works of art that seems to put us in touch with a different level of reality. 

Renaissance artists and writers looked deeply into beauty and found meaning in what they saw.  They felt that beauty is a living energy force, and that through noticing beauty we actually nourish it, just as it nourishes us. 

I believe that by paying more attention to beauty when we find it—in art, nature, and in those we love—we expand our ability to discover it more often and in more places.  Through cultivating a greater awareness of beauty, something in us awakens and we can find a new way of living in the world.

Julianne lives in New York City but has been traveling to Italy since 1990. She lived in Rome for two years and in Venice for three.  As a writer and editor, she has contributed to such print publications as the L.A. Weekly newspaper and to Rosebud, Angels on Earth, Time Out, and Departures magazines.  She was also the correspondent for the Veneto region for the online publication, Italy Italia. Julianne's beautiful book can be found at www.juliannedavidow.com 

It took a wedding in Spain’s Basque Country to make me fall in love with a Guggenheim…

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

 
 

Spain has always been a country I’ve wanted to visit, yet for some reason  countries such as Greece, France, Germany, Austria, England, Switzerland and of course Italy have continued to occupy the top European slots on my travel list. And though I’ve always thought my first Iberian stop would be Andalucía, a region which wraps its arms around the cities of Seville, Granada, Cordoba, rubs shoulders with Gibraltar and exhibits a rich blend of ancient Roman, Greek and Muslim cultures it was a wedding invitation that brought me to fly across the Pyrenees and land in Bilbao. 
 

Plaza Nueva, Bilbao Spain

I was with my husband and four good friends from Venice, all who enjoy nothing more than a flavorful meal washed down with a good glass—or two—of wine. So, as soon as we arrived in Bilbao we set foot toward the Casco Viejo or Old Quarters to find the Plaza Nueva—interesting how the New Plaza is in the Old Quarters. Anyway, we journeyed forward because we had heard that the Plaza Nueva is where the best tapas bars in Bilbao can be found.  The entrance to the plaza took us through a small portico which led us onto a large palm tree dotted square. On the opposite side of the plaza the bright blue façade of the Bar Bilbao grabbed our attention. It was crowded with locals—always a good sign that the food is good and probably reasonably priced. My husband and friends are experts at picking and choosing cicchetti in Venice and they proved apt at doing the same with Spanish tapas. Soon our café table was covered with plates of crunchy pieces of fresh bread topped with creamed crab, or slivers of salmon, or layers of hand sliced pata negra— the melt in your mouth Iberian ham known to be the most expensive prosciutto in the world! And as true Venetians are accustomed to doing while on an ordinary ciccheti crawl in Venice we tasted, savored and sipped, paid the bill and then hopped around the corner to the next locale: the Victor Montes bar—serving find food since 1849.



Victor Montes Bar, Bilbao

We stepped inside to friendly smiles coming at us from behind a long black bar covered with platters bulging with Spanish/Basque delicacies; we couldn’t have asked for a more perfect invitation to continue our tapas trail. But this establishment was different than the first more casual Bar Bilbao. Quick glances around made me feel as if I had been taken back to another time of elegance. Black and white floor tiles formed a delightful checkered backdrop to classic wooden bistro chairs tucked beneath white marble table tops. Rows of spotless wine glasses hung upside-down from a brass rack hovering within arm’s reach above the bar. And the honored guests of the house, a line of pata negra ham hocks aged for eight-years, were tastefully displayed in the midst of fine wine, brandy and cognac. Between a morsel of a pata negra, brie and roasted tomato tapa and a sip of Rioja wine I imagined what it would have been like when this proud establishment first opened and women wearing long bustled dresses and  

Tapas at Victor Montes, Bilbao

mustached gents donning Bowler hats stopped by for a snack and a drink just as we were doing that day dressed in jeans, down-jackets and loafers. Or, how I would have liked to have listened in on the conversation that took place there in 1997 when the Guggenheim museum project was signed over a hearty meal; an architectural wonder I’ll come back to in a moment.



Stomachs satisfied and feeling cheery we said goodbye to the tapas bars, exited the Plaza Nueva and wander down the wide promenade that gently curves alongside the Nerviòn River and through the soul of Bilbao. Pleasant surprises were found every step of the way: a statue of three cherubs standing atop a fountain as if encouraging the surrounding leafless trees to prepare for spring; a Victorian carousel sat quiet while waiting for school children to put away their books and come out and play; well-maintained playgrounds and green spaces filled with laughing preschoolers, doting parents and hand holding retirees.



Nerviòn River and Zubizuri footbridge, Bilbao

One immediately understands that Bilbao is a city developed with family recreation, food markets, theater and outdoor entertainment in mind. The city administrators and urban planners have wisely and artistically blended Bilbao’s traditions with its contemporary growth, and I think they’ve been successful at creating a beautiful, livable city. Our group followed the wide pathway along the river thinking, wouldn’t it be nice to have such a well-organized city to live in…yes we all come from one of the most beautiful cities in the world and yet….



Bilbao city tram



Rear entrance to the Guggenheim Bilbao

The Guggenheim Museum beckoned us in the distance and unanimously—well almost—we decided that we couldn’t leave Bilbao without a closer look. We crossed the Zubizuri which in Basque means white bridge—a footbridge suspended over the river which much like the Millennium Bridge in London connects the promenade with the museum side of town. Zubizuri was handsomely designed by Santiago Calatrava—it should be noted that in Venice Santiago Calatrava’s work is either admired or disputed. He is also the architect of the very contemporary and “slippery” glass bridge in Venice, the Ponte della Costituzione or as many in Venice still call it Il Ponte di Calatrava. Once across the Zubizuri we stepped passed a carpet of green grass that doubles as the foundation for the city’s tram tracks—yes, even the tram tracks run across well maintained green grass.



We left the footbridge behind and walked down a quiet road. The shrine built to worship contemporary art twisted and towered in the distance. With each step we took the exterior of the Guggenheim Museum changed and showed us a different angle of genius. When we stood near enough to touch its smooth surface it dominated us and became its own surroundings, and as if in a sacred place, our very talkative group of friends was silenced by the beauty and magnitude of Frank O. Gehry’s masterpiece. It is a structure that pulls at your senses, seems to defy gravity, and used up all 

 my digital camera’s picture frames. It curves, it hovers, it reflects, it twists, it leans, and it glistens. Its titanium surface seems cold but is instead warm and welcoming. And as I stood and observed this marvel of architecture I wondered if the ancient Egyptians might have felt the same awe and emotion that was rumbling through me as they observed the genius of their own pyramids.

 

Frank O. Gehry's Guggenheim Museum Bilbao



 

For more information on places I've mentioned see:

Victor Montes Tapas Bar & Restaurant: http://www.victormontes.com/en_bar.htm

Café Bar Bilbao: http://www.bilbao-cafebar.com/engl.htm

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao: http://www.guggenheim.org/bilbao





A California Sunset, Cambria and Louisiana Gumbo...

Since I left my beloved California in the late 1980s and moved my life to Venice I’ve often been asked: What do you miss the most? It never takes me long to reply and check off the first three things on my list: family, friends and the weather. Often I stop there, but if I feel I’m in good hands I proceed to tell how my heart still sheds a tear for the sight and scent of the Pacific Ocean and its sunsets.    

Sun over Pacific Ocean from Moonstone Beach, Cambria California

Throughout my years in Venice I’ve tried to tackle and cure my California sunset nostalgia. I’ve often busied myself in my backyard at dusk simply to see the sun’s rays reflect their magic across my garden or sat at a westward facing café to watch the shadows of medieval churches encroach upon nearby calle, campi or canals.  I’ve turned my back to the east and stood at the peak of the Accademia Bridge hoping to catch a glimpse of the day’s light disappear behind a cluster of Renaissance palaces, and I’ve climbed the stairs to the top of the ferryboat departing the Lido to eye a glimmer of sun pouncing off nearby islands.  But each time I fail to find an unobstructed view of the sun kissing the horizon I’m left with a tinge of disappointment. From the northeastern coast of this beautiful peninsula the best sunsets are layered hues of gold, orange, pink, purple and blue coloring the sky, and though twilight in the Serenissima is marvelous it can’t quite compare to a California sunset. So, this past month when my husband and I traveled back to California I filled myself to the marrow with the things I miss and was treated to one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen. It happened in Cambria, a charming seaside town midpoint between Los Angeles and San Francisco. http://www.cambria-online.com/





Boardwalk along Moonstone Beach, Cambria California



The fireplace was lit in our oh my goodness what a view room at the quaint White Water Inn on Moonstone Beach Drive.  Warm and cozy, a glass of cabernet from nearby Paso Robles in hand, we were glad to put our feet up after a late afternoon walk along the boardwalk—a windswept path that lies opposite the Inn for no other reason than to welcome and guide visitors and locals through the indigenous shrubs, trees, flora and sea life that stretch along the rugged central coastline. 



     We had settled back on the sage colored couch in front of the bay window. The sun was moving closer to the ocean and a flock of seagulls were riding the Pacific wind. We let ourselves breath in the peace of Moonstone Beach.  But as so often happens at that hour of the day I began to feel the first pangs of hunger. Where should we have dinner? I turned my gaze away from the Pacific, set the wine glass down and took a guest diary from the stack on the end table. I turned the pale blue pages and read the thoughtful notations left by other travelers. Their words spelled out the same sense of harmony and pleasure I was feeling and it seemed their sojourns at this gracious Inn had gifted them with all the time in the world. I summed up our restaurant options and conferred with my husband. After a quick call to reserve a table at Madeline’s on Main Street I turned my attention back to the window. The sun had gone from being an enormous white globe splashing light on the deep blue ocean to turning its celestial backdrop gold and orange. I threw on a scarf and jacket, grabbed the camera, stepped outside onto the windy porch and started clicking. The sky burned behind the winter wind and the sea turned to ink. 

 

California Sunset

The sight was incredible and I had to force myself to stop taking photos or risk viewing it alone and strictly through the lens.  Convinced that at least one of the dozen or so photos would capture the moment I returned to the warmth of our room and settled back on the couch next to my husband to watch the longest, brightest and most intense sunset I’ve ever seen slip into night. It was the perfect dose of medicine for my California sunset nostalgia and should hold me over…at least for a while. 

Now a bit about the White Water Inn and Madeline’s Restaurant: A few months ago, as destiny and a Google search would have it, I found the White Water Inn online.  I was drawn in by the photos of crisp-yellow cottages set between a rich green hillside and the sapphire-blue Pacific. The rooms appeared bright and welcoming so I shot off an email requesting more information and then followed up with a phone call. I never expected the voice on the other end of the line would belong to a childhood friend. That’s right! I was calling Cambria, California from Venice, Italy and an old acquaintance from my Southern California neighborhood was answering my call. Not only that, he proudly told me he’s the owner of the Inn. My old friend and I were both surprised and pleased that this beautiful seaside town had put us in contact once again. Coincidence had nudged me in the right direction. I won’t hesitate to return, and I wholeheartedly suggest it to anyone who longs for a relaxing get-away in Cambria.  www.whitewaterinn.com

White Water Inn on Moonstone Beach, Cambria California

We entered Madeline’s—named for the owner-chef David Stoothoff’s daughter—at 7 p.m. We’re not accustomed to eating dinner before 8 p.m. but Cambria is a small town, and most restaurants close by 9. We followed the maître to a lovely private table in an area framed by solid wood racks totting bottles of California Central Coast’s finest wines slipped into pigeonhole slots. We browsed the menu by candlelight and after I assured my husband that an appetizer of Crab and Lobster cakes was simply Polpettine di granchi e aragosta we decided to share an order, and chose our entrees, too. Next, we selected our wine but were told they had just sold the last bottle. No problem. We were open to anything that was red, good, fuller than Pinot Noir, maybe with a hint of Syrah, very little Zinfandel and certainly Californian.  (Now, as I’m writing, I understand our request may have sounded quite high-maintenance and I see why our very professional young waitress was thrown into a bit of a dilemma.) Soon the chef and owner of the restaurant was tableside. He was aware of our wine request and dinner order—I was having the Lamb Porterhouse pan seared and topped with pomegranate and zinfandel sauce, and my husband chose something he’ll never find in Italy: Louisiana Seafood Gumbo. (How gumbo got on a menu in Cambria I’ll explain in a moment.) Chef David Stoothoff was very kind, and very knowledgeable. He diligently pulled out and pushed back bottles of wine from their slots until he came across a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Cabernet Franc, aged 20 months in American, French and Hungarian oak barrels. The blend sounded perfect for our plates and palates, and when he told us his father had chosen this wine for the restaurant I was sold. The wine that sounded perfect, and tasted even better, is RN Estate Wine Cuvee des Artistes from Paso Robles.  http://www.rnestate.com/our-wines

The restaurant crowd had thinned and we had finished our exceptional dinner. When the plates were cleared and the crumbs were swept from the white linen tablecloth we asked if the chef had a free moment to chat. My curious streak and plans for this blog post got me to ask David about his restaurant and in particular how the Louisiana gumbo my husband was raving about made it onto his menu. His answer was unexpected and revealed that David Stoothoff is more than a fine chef; he’s a fine American and humanitarian. In 2005 when Katrina hit the Gulf Coast David couldn’t bear to stay in Cambria and watch the aftermath of the hurricane that had destroyed another famous coastline. He knew people would need to be fed and did what he knows how to do so very well. He packed up his kitchen gear, got himself to New Orleans and started cooking for the doctors and Red Cross rescue workers who were trying to make sense out of disaster. For twelve hours a day he worked pots and pans on a stove in a tented make-shift kitchen, and it seems most of the time gumbo was on the menu! David Stoothoff was a blessing for the doctors and volunteers during those long, stressful days. He could have returned to Cambria and kept his experience for himself, but instead he decided to pay tribute to New Orleans and continue to forge a deep relationship between the two coasts by making gumbo a star player at Madeline’s. www.madelinescambria.com





Happy Birthday to my Blog and Happy New Year to you!

I will bring in 2012 by raising a glass of Col Vetoraz Prosecco and toasting all of you!
http://www.colvetoraz.it/ 

One year ago today I started writing this blog, and today as I sit at my desk and think back over the last 12 months my thoughts are like those of a mother who looks at her child, lays a sweet kiss on her cheek and says my how you've grown before quickly conceding to the silent guilt tugging at her heart and letting those gentle thoughts transform into but can you forgive me for those moments when life stole my time away and caused me to neglect you?

I began writing this blog with you—my readers and followers—in mind, and because sharing my experiences and showing others what it means to be an American living in Italy brings me great joy. But the best part of keeping this blog is what I learn from you. From around the globe you have graced my pages with nearly twenty-thousand clicks and many, many thoughtful comments. You have responded with vero amore for Venice and Italy, and it fills my heart to the brim to know there are so many who understand and share the deep passion I feel for a city and a country which burst with immense beauty and curious contradictions.

Writing-wise 2011 was a fine year and gave me the opportunity to explore, learn and grow.  Early in the year, on a cold, foggy winter’s day my blog article Celebrating Armenian Christmas in Venice, Italy was picked up by Yerevan magazine and published as their online cover story. Then spring brought me down grapevine lined paths which led me to write about my beloved Valpolicella wine region, and further away from home to wander up and down the coastal routes of the Cinque Terre which made the tragedy that hit that beautiful spot and the proud people I met while there a little more personal. I thank all of you who felt compelled to contribute to the Cinque Terre relief fund and who shared my blog so others would do so, too. In July the heat of the summer aroused my love for fireworks, good food, a quiet gondola ride down the Grand Canal and Il Redentore. When the last weeks of summer rolled around I met the magical island of Sicily, tasted the richness of a real cannoli and stood at the heart of the Teatro Antico in Taormina and witnessed Mount Etna billow clouds of ash and smoke in the distance. Then when the third season arrived and the nights required a light wrap across my shoulders I spent a working autumn break in Matera—the elegant città di pietra in the Basilicata. Oh how lucky I feel to have had so many Italian wonders fill my year!

Some may know that while I was blogging about the places I had seen and love I was also full force trying to get my women's contemporary fiction: Beneath the Lion’s Wings published. In the first month of 2011 it seemed my book was ready for the world—or at least ready for an agent or two—to see. I sent out queries and received many “no’s”, I revised my query and began to see a few “yes’s” and some requests for a partial or the full manuscript.  In the months between those first query letters and late summer I learned that publishing is a very, very slow process and not suitable for those with a fragile ego. During the last weekend of September I attended my first writer’s conference: the Women’s Fiction Festival in Matera. I met fabulous authors, agents and editors from around the world—the United States, England, New Zealand, Australia and of course Italy—and made friends for a lifetime. I brainstormed with authors and pitched Beneath the Lion’s Wings to agents and editors, and I was so thrilled to hear quite a few were interested and actually liked it! I came home and polished it up once more only to learn in order to make it even better there is still more work to be done. So my project will continue well into 2012 because I don't like to give up!

Alas, I am ready to step away from 2011 and greet 2012. My arms are full of goods which I have gathered from my blog, my travels, from you and from my writing experiences and I am taking them all with me. I look forward to continuing my blog and hope you will stop by, leave a comment, share a post with a friend or just read and click on. In the coming months I will dedicate as much time as is needed to make Beneath the Lion’s Wings as good as I possibly can so one day the story I have to tell—the story I so passionately want others to hear will be read by, hopefully, many.  

I'll leave you with this tribute for good luck, good health and the right amount of prosperity in the coming year. May it come to all of us!  Libiam nei lieti calici from Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata, New Year’s Day 2011 Venice-Teatro La Fenice. Please know that at midnight on New Year's Eve I will be raising my calice of bubbling prosecco to all of you, but for now I'm sending warm thoughts your way and wish you all Buon Anno Nuovo—Happy New Year!

 

I took a walk in Venice today and this is what I saw...



Blue lights against a blue winter sky reflecting more blue on the iron lid of a waterwell-Campo SS. Apostoli



Sottoportico near Rialto Bridge



Ice Skating Rink Campo San Polo, Venice




A view from a very famous bridge, Rialto



Thun ceramic manger figures facing St. Mark's Square



Thun ornaments decorate Christmas tree set beside the Church of San Marco




Il Leoncino "the little lion" guarding the manger in St. Mark's Square



Sottoportico in St. Mark's Square dressed for Christmas

Starry lights above Strada Nova



Night falling early-Winter in Venice



Baimaiself: Tommaso Luppi's Atlantic Crossing running update continues here...

The Homecoming: Tommaso Luppi & Baimaiself arrive in Venice!

Tommaso Bringing Baimaiself Home

April 22, 2012: Just a few days short of eight months have passed since Tommaso Luppi, Venetian gondolier, set sail alone from Almerimar, Spain aboard Baimaiself to successfully follow Christopher Columbus’ route across the Atlantic Ocean. On Sunday, beneath grey skies and through the wakes of the Adriatic Sea—which must have seemed like bath water in comparison to the waves he faced on the Atlantic Ocean—Tommaso completed his journey aboard Baimaiself  by bringing her home to Venice. 

Gondola escort for Baimaiself

Bai, as we have all come to affectionately call her, arrived through the port of Lido, glided passed the gardens of Saint Elena and the marina of San Giorgio Maggiore Island flanked by sailboats from the Diporto Velico Veneziano sailing club. As Bai arrived closer to St. Mark’s Basin Tommaso’s colleagues manned their gondolas and escorted Bai to the Molo traghetto to be docked among Venice’s most symbolic vessels. 

Loud cheers, and a banquet of food and drink organized by the gondoliers and offered by local restaurants and bars, added an even more festive touch to the celebration, and welcomed sponsors and fans that like Italy to Los Angeles and Back have enthusiastically followed Tommaso’s adventure. 

Buffet Celebration with Gondoliers, Sponsors & Friends

Tommaso’s determination, courage and accomplishment shine a light on the city of Venice and brighten the spirit that sits at the heart of the gondolier trade. I, along with those who have followed your adventure, thank you Tommaso for showing us that our dreams are meant to be realized.

Tommaso & his fellow Gondoliers celebrating aboard Bai!

Bravo Tommaso, Brava Baimaiself e Bentornati a Casa!

Tommaso & Bai running free!

To read about Tommaso's adventure just keep scrolling down the page!

Venetian Gondolier Tommaso Luppi has successfully crossed the Atlantic Ocean alone on Baimaiself and has arrived in Martinique!



The flag of San Marco on Bai waving goodbye to 3000 miles of Atlantic crossing

 




Tommaso's view from Baimaiself as they approach the Island of Martinique

    


Le Marin Bay Island of Martinique as seen from Baimaiself

 



Tomasso Luppi wearing his Venetian Gondolier uniform and completing his journey after 23 days at sea. He honors his trade, his colleagues and the city of Venice, Italy.

 





December 5, 2011 at 8:30 p.m. Italian timeTommaso wrote: Finally I'm anchored in the Le Marin Bay and in front of my eyes is the enchanting scenery I've been dreaming about! Now all I want to do is rest and relax...there's a part of me that thinks I deserve it. Until later, Tommaso.

And I say: Thank you Tommaso for making Roberto and I feel so much a part of your adventure and for calling us once again this evening, and more than anything else thank you for letting me share your adventure here on my blog. To my readers, who have now become your fans, I'd like to say that it was wonderful hearing your voice, learning you were safe and sound, and listening to your enthusiasm leap through the telephone as you retold much of what you have shared with us on this blog. You have followed your dream and made it reality. Now enjoy your time sailing the quieter waters of the Caribbean with your lovely family. Your fans will be waiting to greet you upon your return to Venice. Grazie!

December 5, 2011 at 12:30 p.m. Italian time Tommaso Luppi called my husband via SAT and then wrote: Bai and her crew has spotted LAND!!!!! I'm 30 miles from Martinique. http://www.findmespot.com/mylocation/?id=6bEGM
AND I SAY with a tear in my eye and a lump in my throat: Tommaso you are an incredible person and an inspiration to all who have a dream. Thank you for letting us share yours with you! Sei Grande!!!!

December 4, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from 14°20'N-59°00'W. Well I've only got about one hundred miles to go. Tomorrow I'll be able to let you know how it feels to see land after 22 days at sea; who knows maybe I'll get land-sick! At this very moment I'm using motor because there's no wind and I prefer to approach the island by day and have a more secure landing between the barrier reef and mangroves. Now, seeing as my surroundings are quite calm, I'm going to get some rest; tomorrow I need to be prepared and rested for the moment and an enormous emotion. Ciao my friends...until tomorrow!  

December 3, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from 14°17'N-56°46'W rotta 270°. Today is a calm day with a few strong gusts of wind up to 30 knots which I actually found quite entertaining. The only thing I blame myself for is my awful cooking and having a lack of culinary creativity--if I never see another can of food! As for the rest I'm really satisfied how the trip is going. And to Mauro, I'm glad that along with my family, my friends and colleagues are deeply enjoying my adventure, too.  Thank you all. A warm salute, Tommaso. 

December 2, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from14°41'N-54°13'W rotta per 270°. Hi dear Facebook friends; I'm about 300 miles away from Martinique and I'm navigating in the middle of rain showers that alternate with clear skies.  On the horizon you can see walls of violet which are actually downpours that suddenly teem down upon Bai and then rush off leaving peace and quiet. This morning an oil tanker passed in front of me; I guess that means I'm getting close to land and seeing the first forms of civilization or lack of civilzation. I thank all of you for the support you have shown me, and I wish you a good night.

December 1, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from14°35'N-51°52'W. Thanks my Facebook friends for the wonderful comments you're writing. This evening I'm a little later than usual getting back to you because up until sunset I had to spend my time working as if I were an exclusive taylor: the spanker split! I must say as far as stitching and sewing I did a pretty good job. The tear was caused by the constant friction of the sail against the crosstree. Oh well, it happens. I'll get it fixed when I arrive in Martinique. Today I spotted three boats; they were probably part of the Arc regatta, so I don't feel all alone anymore! Have a good evening...until tomorrow. 

November 30, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from 14°40'N-49°08'W route at 275° speed at 6 knots wind at 15 knots. Today there was a small accident with the spinnaker yard after a sudden broach of the boat. It slowed me down a bit because I had to take the time to do some repair work at the foot of the mast to fix the genoa. It happens; what's important is that the remedy works, and more than anything it holds against the continuous yanks and pulls caused by the constant sea rolls. As for everything else, it's going well; calm and tranquil. This journey has given me time to relax (even with the waves) and read--today I finished my second book dedicated to the life of Christopher Columbus. I think I've got a little less than 600 miles to go, so I'll be keeping you company for quite a few more evenings. Until tomorrow. Ciao. http://www.findmespot.com/mylocation/?id=6Zh5z

November 29, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from 14°41'N-46°39'W. Hello friends! Outstanding navigation today; I traveled just under 160 miles and now I've got less than 1000 miles to go. According to the last weather forecast I got from Roberto this evening--thank you Roby you're fantastic and an enormous help--the storm that was hovering over the Caribbean islands is headed north therefore it shouldn't affect my route. My best to all; until tomorrow evening...good night.

November 28, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from 14°43'N-43°54'W. Dear friends, today, thanks to the wind at 25 knots, I beat my own record and traveled 158 miles between yesterday at noon and today. Now with the sea swells and the intense wind at the bow the difficulty lies in keeping Bai from pitching. In fact, this morning, the main sail gybed and I found the sea at my side and a swell washed through the boat wetting just about everything, including the correspondence table which holds all the instruments; fortunately everything is still working! Besides the water I had other guests: a baby seagull was seeking refuge in the cockpit. It was probably tired of flying against the wind! However, no need to worry, the situation is under control--even if I don't think I'll get much rest tonight. You know what they say "when the going gets tough the tough get going". All the best from the Atlantic...until tomorrow! 

November 27, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote: Hi friends! I've just updated you on my position with a spot message http://www.findmespot.com/mylocation/?id=6YK8t Today was a beautiful windy day which permitted me to travel about 150 miles in 24 hours. This afternoon I crossed paths with another sailboat; an English couple who via radio told me they, too are headed for Martinique. We took photos of each other and we'll exchange them once we're docked in the Martinique Marina. It's a great opportunity to have a photo reminder of Bai in the deep blue Atlantic! Good night to all, Tommy.

November 26, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote: Aeolus didn't make me wait today and gave me 20 knots of wind which took me to my current position of 15°26'N-38°48'W. While Bai was gaining territory through the waves--proceeding across the ocean--I spotted a group of sparkling fish swimming alongside us; I think it was a school of Dorado! According to the weather forecast the wind should be good in the next couple of days and I hope to make up the miles I wasn't able to travel in the last few days. I've yet to see another boat on the radar since I left port...oh, wait, for a minute I forgot I was in the middle of the Atlantic! Until tomorrow, ciao!

November 24, 2011: ‎Today Tommaso wrote from 15°39'N-34°32'W: Today I didn't gain much distance because there's very little wind and the waves have flattened so much you could take a gondola out for a nice ride; it's calmer than the St. Mark's Basin back home! The sky is clear and the sun is burning hot! Peace and silence surround me; the only sound is that of Bai's gentle splashing as she advances forward on the intense blue sea. Marvelous! My best to all of you, I bid you sweet dreams. You can follow Tommaso's route and progress here: http://www.baimaiself.com/gps.html

November 23, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from 15°47'N-32°40'W. Hi friends, unfortunately I'm travelling a bit slower due to the lack of wind, and when I look at the nautical map it seems as if I'm standing still! Hey Aeolus, did you leave on vacation? I'm faithfully waiting! Fortunately I've got all of you to keep me company through your messages; some of you are even keeping my morale up with a joke or two--Thank you Mattia and Sara. I hope to be able to have more to tell tomorrow. Good (and damp) night!

November 21, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from 18°14'N-29°09'W route for 215°. The wind is blowing at 15 knots and we're running at 6.5 knots. Today I added more canvas seeing that there wasn't much wind and the sea conditions permitted; in fact the roll of the sea extended a bit giving the boat more stability. Yesterday the Arc regatta left Gran Canaria, so maybe in a few days I'll meet up with a few of the boats. However, everything is proceeding well and I really like hearing from all of you on my Facebook page. So please do keep writing. All the best from the Ocean.

November 20, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from:19°25'N-27°25'W route for 260°. Hi friends, wind at the stern at 13 knots.Yesterday Bai travelled 147 miles in 24 hours! Now she's slowing down because the wind has died down; it'll probably be this way for the next few days because of atmospheric disturbances in the north Atlantic. This afternoon was pretty exciting though, because off the stern I spotted a fin--I'm sure it was a whale--and earlier I discovered Bai completely covered with flying fish, unfortunately they were already drying in the sun. Most likely they had "landed" during the night. Until our next episode tomorrow!

November 17, 2011: Today Tommaso wrote from off the coast of Western Sahara: Hi everyone, this is my position 21°12'N-20°24'W rotta per 250° at 18-20 knots I'm proceeding with the wind at the stern and open sails. Last night I was "resting" in the company of dolphins. The hull of Bai transmitted their fantastic sound and verse! Thank you my travel companions, I'll be waiting for you tonight, too. And to my supporters, I wish you all a good night. Until tomorrow.
You can follow Tommaso's route and progress here: http://www.baimaiself.com/gps.html

Gondolier and Sailor Tommaso Luppi on Baimaiself


November 14, 2011: Well Tommaso Luppi has set sail on his transatlantic crossing! Above is a photo he posted November 13th as he passed the Dunes of Maspalomas and the Melonera lighthouse. From that point it'll be blue water until he reaches the Caribbean. Buon Vento Tommaso!
I'll be translating and posting Tommaso's updates here in English as he makes them from aboard Baimaiself, and you can follow his path using this link See My Location http://www.findmespot.com/mylocation/?id=6SQOW A presto!

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Dunes of Maspalomas-Gran Canaria


As promised this blog post will be a running update of Tommaso Luppi's transatlantic crossing. If you haven't already done so read my August blog post here http://italytolosangelesandback.blogspot.com/2011/08/venetian-gondolier-to-sail-atlanticall.html and then follow along to see what Tommaso has to tell us from his Facebook page and while aboard Baimaiself :





Gran Canaria Island in View

 

September 11, 2011: Hello to all! We made it to the Canary Islands—precisely Gran Canaria Island. Bai for now is docked at the Las Palmas Marina while waiting to find out where she’ll be kept until November. Our departure from Gibraltar was a bit uneasy, because when I slipped the moorings to pass the mythical Pillars of Hercules and navigate the Ocean for at least 5 days I knew the weather could change even though the predictions confirmed a week of Portuguese alisei.

It was 8:45 a.m. on Sunday September 4, 2011 when I set sail and my neighbors from the boat docked beside me bid us goodbye. As Bai moved away from the dock they stood up, raised their hands and crossed their fingers while wishing me good luck. Believe me when I say that their gestures made me a little preoccupied, however as soon as I began to sail I left all thoughts of preoccupation behind. Leaving the Strait of Gibraltar took longer than I had anticipated because the current was against us and at times it blew at 4 knots causing Bai to run at 2.5 knots. At 1 p.m. I crossed Tariff in steep, intersecting waters which finally freed us to enter the open Ocean. I was holding a route of 270° for about 70 miles leaving the coast of Africa, and about 10 miles from the Strait Bai was able to sail at a minimum of 5 knots. All the while the wind was coming from the prow; at 9 p.m. I leaned and went 250° only using the sails until dawn on



Baimaiself facing some mighty waves

September 5 with winds constant at about 20 knots. It wasn’t until daylight came that I could see that the waves were enormous confirming my thoughts as to why we had experienced such unusual rolling during the night.

However Bai did well, and thanks to Mustafa the wind rudder she held at a speed of 6/7 knots. Now I need to repair the wind straps because the roll caused all the rivets to pop. So with a drill, and a lot of balance on my part, I’ll be able to fix what needs to be fixed. In the meantime the wind is orienting more from the stern so I decided to go a farfalla or butterfly, and I discovered that Bai, by reducing the mainsail (due mani di terzaroli alla randa) she navigates well often reaching, and while descending enormous waves, 11.5 knots. On September 6 at dawn I spotted a blanket of flying fish; the sight filled me with emotion. It was just like those events I’ve read about in books of great navigators.

As for the rest the sailing went like this: wind in the sails, sun and Bai flying through immense oceanic waves. When I think about how I’ve taken her out on the Murano canal to pick up my daughter from school on a day when the local transportation was on strike, or on the Saint Erasmo canal for a swim, and now we’re out in the Atlantic Ocean…it’s incredible!

Then on September 8, my birthday, I got a surprise visit from a family of dolphins with a lot of young dolphin calves following along, truly a herd of them; Now another 200 miles to go before we reach Gran Canaria Island.

September 9, 2011 was the day of arrival in Gran Canaria Island. I was so excited when I saw the island. As soon as I entered the first seawall—which is enormous—a docked tugboat honked at me. The commander raised his hand in a sign of victory and then saluted me again with a ring of his siren. He most certainly must be a fan of Sea Shepherd—but he also was paying tribute to Baimaiself and her first Ocean crossing. I docked at the Marina Las Palmas at 9 p.m. Italian time, here it was 8 p.m.

Bai has made her first 750 mile ocean crossing in 5 days and 11 hours at a median speed of 5.7 knots. Now she’ll rest until November when we’ll face approximately 2,800 miles of ocean to cross together.



The Rock of Gibraltar

 Friday September 2, 2011: I’ve arrived in Gibraltar! A place I’ve always dreamt about, as I imagine most sailors have. From here it’s all Ocean navigation and therefore we’ve arrived at the beginning.

Yesterday I set out at 5 a.m. from Malaga and after having sailed about 70 miles we arrived at 7 p.m. The sailing went pretty well; up until about 15 miles outside of the coast, with, obviously, the wind and sea blowing against the bow. I was 35 miles away from the Rock of Gibraltar when I spotted it, and the coast of Africa. I began preparing to take the mythic photo of me and the Rock but, like I said, about 15 miles outside the Rock the wind picked up and began to blow at 35 knots—obviously against the bow—and the light rain limited the visibility causing me to have to use radar to navigate and keep an eye on the many, many boats that navigate in that area.

On top of all that the tide was lowering, in other words, pulling out toward the Ocean while the wind was coming from the West, creating choppy, rolling waves which covered Bai with water a number of times causing me to slow her down from 6.5 knots to 3 knots.



A Rainbow to Salute Bai & Tommaso



However, in the end we were able to pass the Europe Point leaving behind a marvelous 180° rainbow. Now, Bai and I are in the Atlantic Ocean. We did well; and Bai is an exceptional boat. She keeps moving forward, even against walls of water and she never pounds against the waves; she’s always sweet.

Yesterday I slept anchored in a bay because I was too tired to make the needed docking maneuvers. Instead today I went to the Marina Bay. Nearby, about 50 meters away, there’s an airport runway, and the airplanes are pretty much landing right next to me; it’s an uneasy feeling.

Now I need to wait until the low pressure system passes, it’s brought a lot of wind from the West and I hope to leave for the Canary Islands on Monday or Tuesday.

Ciao to all!

Thursday September 1, 2011: On route to Gibraltar with southwest wind, all is well to move forward...will get back to you later.
Wednesday August 31, 2011: I left Almerimar this morning with the bow headed out to sea and the wind against us, more updates to come from the next port...

Evening: The web connection is really slow today so I can't post any photos, however I sailed about 70 miles from Almerimar to Caleta Velez, Malaga against swells and wind all, of course, coming from the bow, Bai behaved perfectly and it seems she, too, is anxious to enter the Ocean, however, we'll have to wait because there's a low pressure system arriving which will worsen the weather. Tomorrow I’ll get closer to Gibraltar and wait out the bad weather in a Spanish dock, once again travelling against the wind, pietà...pity! Today I saw a group of flying fish "fly" across the bow of Bai, they're extremely strong and can fly up to thirty-meters at a time.

I'm not sailing at night and I need to stay very close to the coast to avoid even rougher swells, so there will be more water traffic and it's not as safe. I hope the internet connection is better tomorrow so I can post more photos...

Tuesday August 30, 2001: Another hard day of work has come to an end. It seems the chores to get Baimaiself ready never end, however, that's okay because it seems that everything is working well with Bai; the new mainsail fits like a glove; all the instruments are okay, and the motor--after 5 months--started up on the first try...

Fuel tanks

The gasoline tanks I've installed will give Bai about 350 miles to travel on; I need to fill about 800...let's hope the wind turns!

Monday August 29, 2001: Hi everyone. I arrived in Almerima (where Baimaiself is docked) yesterday August 28 at 4p.m. and up to this moment (August 29 at 3:45 p.m.) I've been busy working aboard, first cleaning, she was covered with sand (it hasn't rained here since I left her in April) and then getting her ready to set sail.

Saturday August 27, 2001: Today is my last day at work on the gondola, tomorrow I'll fly to Gibraltar where Baimaiself has been waiting for the last 5 months. I'll begin applying the adhesive sponsors' logos and start to clean her up. Then on August 31 I set sail for Gran Canaria Island which I should reach in approximately 10 days...



Some Sponsors...there's room for more!



Follow my progress here: http://www.baimaiself.com/gps.html